Origins of Wazwan: A Feast Born of Royalty

The word “Wazwan” is derived from two Persian words: waz (cook) and wan (shop). Introduced during the reign of the Mughals and further refined under Afghan and Central Asian rulers, Wazwan became the culinary centerpiece of Kashmiri Muslim weddings and festivals. It is traditionally a 36-course meal, though the number may vary depending on the occasion and the host’s generosity.

The preparation of Wazwan is a sacred ritual. It is led by the Waza, a hereditary chef who trains for years to master the techniques, spice blends, and presentation styles. Cooking is done in large copper cauldrons called degchis, often over wood-fired stoves, and the process can take up to 24 hours.

Signature Dishes: A Symphony of Meat and Spice

Wazwan is predominantly non-vegetarian, with lamb being the star ingredient. Some of its most iconic dishes include:

• Rogan Josh: A vibrant red lamb curry flavored with Kashmiri chillies and aromatic spices.

• Rista: Minced lamb balls cooked in a rich red gravy, known for their melt-in-the-mouth texture.

• Gushtaba: A larger, softer meatball served in a creamy yogurt-based sauce, traditionally the final dish of the feast.

• Tabak Maaz: Ribs of lamb simmered in milk and spices, then fried to a golden crisp.

• Marchwangan Korma: A fiery lamb curry made with dried red chillies and ghee.

Vegetarian dishes like dum aloo and chaman (paneer in turmeric gravy) are also served, but they play a supporting role in the meat-dominated spread.

The meal is served on a trami, a large copper platter shared by four guests, symbolizing unity and community. Rice is the base, and each dish is layered and presented with precision.

Rituals and Symbolism

Wazwan is not just about food - it’s about ritual and respect. Guests are welcomed with tash-t-nari, a portable hand-washing basin, before the meal begins. The order of dishes, the seating arrangement, and the serving etiquette are all steeped in tradition.

The final dish, gushtaba, is symbolic - it signals the end of the meal and is considered a mark of the host’s culinary prowess. Refusing gushtaba is seen as a breach of etiquette.

Evolution and Modern Adaptations

While Wazwan remains deeply traditional, it has also evolved to meet modern tastes and lifestyles. Urban households now prepare mini-Wazwans for festivals, and restaurants across India offer curated Wazwan platters. Vegetarian and chicken-based versions are emerging to cater to dietary preferences.

Chefs are experimenting with plating styles, portion sizes, and fusion elements - like Rogan Josh tacos or Gushtaba ravioli - without compromising authenticity. Food bloggers and YouTubers are documenting Wazwan recipes, making them accessible to younger generations and global audiences.

Challenges and Preservation

Despite its grandeur, Wazwan faces challenges. The labor-intensive preparation, rising meat costs, and changing dietary habits have led some families to simplify the feast. Moreover, the art of the Waza is at risk, as fewer young people take up the profession.

To preserve this heritage, culinary schools in Kashmir are offering specialized training in Wazwan cooking. Cultural organizations are hosting food festivals and workshops, and digital platforms are archiving recipes and oral histories.

Wazwan as Cultural Diplomacy

Wazwan has also become a tool of cultural diplomacy. It is served to dignitaries, featured in tourism campaigns, and showcased at international food festivals. Its ability to convey warmth, generosity, and craftsmanship makes it a powerful ambassador of Kashmiri culture.

In a region often portrayed through the lens of conflict, Wazwan offers a narrative of resilience and richness. It reminds the world that Kashmir is not just a geopolitical entity - it is a land of poetry, artistry, and unforgettable flavors.

A Feast of Identity

Kashmiri Wazwan is more than a meal - it is a culinary epic, a celebration of community, and a testament to the region’s layered history. Its evolution reflects the adaptability of tradition, the creativity of its custodians, and the enduring power of food to bring people together.

As India’s culinary landscape continues to globalize, Wazwan stands tall as a beacon of authenticity. Whether served in a heritage home in Srinagar or a fine-dining restaurant in Delhi, it carries with it the soul of Kashmir rich, resilient, and regal.